After 11+ years I finally got back into the ocean with my good friend Kirk who's out for a conference from San Antonio. Thanks to my pastor I was able to find some surf racks for my SUV for cheap. I was just excited to get in the water again. The wet suit was a bit tight (I've had it for over 12 years) and I forgot to wax my board (an 8'6" G&S that I got about 12 years ago also) so it was a bit slippery out there. There was a nasty little riptide and too much kelp. Despite all this I was actually able to get up on my board for a few seconds. I didn't expect that to happen so I'm pretty jacked.
Great stuff and we're going again before Kirk goes back to Texas.
Posted by Tim at June 27, 2004 10:33 PMthat's awesome! sounds like a good time. anyways, I used to know you from the Switchfoot boards, but haven't talked to you or seen your posts in awhile, I recently started surfing, I live in Pismo Beach (north of you, you live in SD right?), the water is so much warmer up where you are, I so envy you guys. anyways, that's really awesome, and everytime I see your icon on livejournal, I smile, because your boys are so cute, and they remind me of my family and cousins. Are they half caucasian, half asian of some sort? (we're half chinese) anyways, surfing is so great, probably the best surfer I know is over 50, and he's still riding hardcore and goes everyday and is just an amazing surfer at any age. you should go more often (hehe, sorry, don't know why i'm telling you what to do!?). You should go surfing with the switchfoot boys :] hehe. anwyays, I hope you're doing good Tim.
Posted by: Trina at June 28, 2004 08:51 PM
